Sarah is eager to take
me up to her bell tower and I am keen to go. The idea of small Sarah swinging ecstatically on a bell rope like
the Hunchback of Notre Dame is delightful. We get up early because we are going
to meet John, the Master of the bell tower and another bell ringer called Joan, who together will “ring
up” the bells for an afternoon wedding.
I have no idea what this means but count myself lucky to be about to
witness such a thing
It is a bit of a
dreary morning with a nasty little wind blowing. “I hope the bride’s got her
veil nailed down” says Sarah as we pass through the strange gates into the
churchyard. There are two gates
under a little roof, each of which has a corner chopped out so as to accommodate
a long slab of stone with a cross on it.
“For the coffin bearers to rest while the mourners settle themselves
down in the church” says Sarah.
She also points out a leaning gravestone with a poem about the three
year old beneath who died in agony following the ingestion of a stone. The grass is tall and damp and we
hasten through into the church. In
a little while Joan arrives and opens the tower door for us. There is a narrow
circular stone staircase that winds round and round with a rope for holding on
to. We go first to the room with
the ropes hanging down and charts of numbers. Apparently it costs 140 pounds to
have bells at your wedding – twenty each for the bell ringers and twenty for
the watcher who climbs a stepladder and peers out of a little window in the
rope room ready to signal when the bride is near and the bells need to tumble.
After this we go up more little triangular steps to see the bells themselves,
six of them sober and dark in two rows. Somehow they looked moody and lonely to me, and a far
cry from the joyous pealing they will be putting out in the afternoon. The last bit of the climb was to the
roof which was very windy and commanded a view, very useful for spotting enemy
incursions in the warlike days of yore.
We return to the rope
room to wait for the Master, John, and then Joan gets a phone call to say he’s
overslept and will be half an hour late.
It turns out he’s a member of the volunteer First Responder team and was
called out at 4am and fell into a deep sleep after the emergency. First responders go to anyone in
trouble in the village and assess whether to call an ambulance from Plymouth,
which has to cross the Tamar on the ferry if required. Millbrook seems to run seamlessly
because of all its volunteers doing this and that.
When John comes he’s
full of sparkle despite (or maybe because of) his night of drama and I get to
see the preparation of the bells two by two. Alas there is no leaping about a la Quasimodo but it is
fascinating none the less. The purpose of the exercise is to get the bells
stuck in an upside down position all
ready to drop and ring out when the bride comes. The two ringers have the ropes looped round their hands and
with each pull the bell gets higher and they let a bit of rope go. Both ringers seem to do their work
effortlessly, just bending their knees and pulling the velvety part of the rope
called the sally along with the hempen bit. The sound makes me feel slightly tearful, strange and
ancient and obedient to the ropes. Once locked into position the ringers rest
and we go down the steps to the bottom.
Since we arrived the flowers for the wedding have come and each pew has
a little bunch on the end.
Our next mission is to
visit the Coastwatch Station high on a clifftop, also run by volunteers
(including Sarah of course) Their
job is to keep a sharp eye on all boats and ships visible out at sea, record
their names or descriptions and co-ordinate rescue if anything happens to
anyone. There’s a helicopter,
which can be called in to winch up casualties. I never know how to do justice to views but this one is vast
and the little boats are tiny as ladybirds. There is a magnificent telescope
and a radar to help with identification.
“Ah Sarah” says the
woman volunteer in her smart uniform. “Thank you so much for the spoons. They
raised twenty pounds!” It seems she’s also something important in the Women’s
Institute where Sarah is giving a talk on our Great Aunt Bobby who was a
policeperson in a munitions factory in WWII. Sarah takes the opportunity to report the closure “until
further notice” of the village doctor’s surgery and dark suspicions are
exchanged. In the event it turns out that some mad person had more than once
put superglue in the lock of the place.
I comment to Sarah about how news gets about. “Yes,” she says it’s predigital. You don’t need the internet to know what’s going on here”
Everyone is their own carrier pigeon.
The last thing we do
this day is attend the village hall for the film club’s monthly movie which is
“Filmstars don’t die in Liverpool”.
It’s all about a love relationship between a young man and a fifty plus
actress. Most of us audience are into our seventies and like the film a lot.
I’m impressed by all
the facets of this village life that I have been privy to but hope Sarah
behaves herself because there’s no question that everyone will know if she
doesn’t.
What a wonderful village. From far away Sydney this feels like quintessential England. Thanks Julia
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