For the last two days we have had an intermittent companion
on the road. Sometimes on the
right side and sometimes on the left a great pipe runs alongside us. Now and
then it vanishes for a bit.
“Where’s the pipe gone?” we say but it always comes back, sometimes
rusty and dark and sometimes bright white. It is the water pipe that runs up hill from Perth to the dry
gold fields at the other end.
Before its arrival water cost a shilling a bucket and was produced by
evaporating and distilling salt water.
It was begun in 1896 and completed in 1903. Its inventor, C Y. O’Connor
however never saw his water run because he rode into the sea and shot himself
after being harassed and accused of corruption by his contemporaries the year
before the pipe was put into commission.
It is a lovely pipe but looks so vulnerable. We wonder what happens when bits need replacing. There must be some kind of open heart
surgery arrangement with bypasses I suppose.
It’s nice to have the pipe with us because for the first
time in our long journey the drive is a bit boring. There are huge flat wheatfields to be got through. They look so sterile compared to the grand bush and it is easy to imagine how the aboriginal population must have
hated the stripping of the land to plant the wheat. There are a couple of interesting stops though. One is the little town of Merredin with a row of
thriving shops including a bakers. I am intrigued by a notice
in many shops advertising Bogan Bingo in June for $33. It seems a lot for a bit of Bingo. I
pop into the pub to find out what it is and the barmaid gestures to a poster
which explains “Half party, half parlour game and Australian as a Bali Prison” I
think they must have a lot of fun in Merredin.
The second stop is at the site of Australia’s biggest ever
earthquake,6.9 on the Richter scale.
The little town of Meckering was totally destroyed on 14th
October 1968 but nobody died. A broken collarbone was apparently the worst
injury. The Meckeringians have preserved the ruin of the Snooke family’s house
which is like other ruins except for a sign stuck in the middle of the rubble
“Baby’s cot here” Apparently Mrs
Snooke was hanging out the washing when the quake occurred and rushed in to rescue
her baby girl. Luckily the wall
beside her cot had collapsed outwards and she was unharmed. I wondered if her miraculous escape had
influenced her life. One would
surely feel a bit special. In the
information centre I was shown a photo of her on her wedding day – tall and
beautiful with her smaller parents.
We are rather uplifted by this unusual good news story and
chug on more cheerfully to Perth.
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